PAYLAŞ

suyun alev mavisi dili öfkeli dağların arasından norveç`in kalbinin derinliklerine doğru uzanır

sogne_fiyordu

En tecrübeli gezginler bile, okyanusa açılan yolcu gemilerindeki seyahatlerinde, Sogne Fiyordundan geçtikleri sırada maket oyuncaklar gibi cüceleşip süzülürken, o büyüleyici sessizliğe gömülür. Dağlar ve dayanıklı granit surlar ise bazen yerlerde 900 metreye kadar ulaşan yükseklik ve heybete sahiptir. Suyun hemen yanında neredeyse dimdik yükselirler. Altlarından çağlayan cılız su şeritleri yukarıdaki karlardan eriyen sulardır. Çam ağaçları, köklerinin kaya çatlaklarını ve gevşek toprak kümeleri kavradığı daha az sarp bayırlara tutunur.

sakin sular

Birdenbire, uygunsuz bir karşıtlık içinde , fiyordun sınırındeki dar ve verimli resiflerin bitişiğinde yer yer ufacık çiftlikler ortaya çıkar. Tertipli çiftliklerin ortasında yer alan, duvarları kireç badanayla boyalı ve kırmızı ya da gri çatıları oluklu sacla döşeli çiftlik evlerin düzeni, etrafındaki şaşırtıcı ihtişamı ortaya çıkarır. Azıcık bir gelgitle beraber, Sogne Fiyordu göl suyu dinginliğindedir. Kıvrımlı güzergahı onu Atlantik`in vahşetine karşı korur ve bazen yalnızca taze, saf havanın keskin tuz kokusu buranın bir fiyord ( denizin bir kolu) olduğunu anımsatır.
Sogne Fiyordu, Norveç`in batı kıyısını, rüzgarın yırttığı bir bayrağın kenarı gibi gösteren 200 büyük fiyorddan yalnızca biridir. Eni 5 km`den fazla olan Sogne, denizden içeri 184km girerek Norveç`teki en uzun ve en derin fiyordu oluşturur. Vadi, 1200 metre derinliğindeki su düzeyinin üstü ve altı dahil 2100 metre yani, Amerika`daki Büyük Kanyondan yaklaşık 600 metre daha derindir.
Bu fiyord oluşumunu buzullar şekillendirdi. Granit dağlar 2000 milyon yaşında olabilir. Büyük olasılıkla, hemen hemen 50 milyon yıldan beri dağların kıvrımlarında akan nehirler, vadileri oymaya başladı ve Buzul Çağın ardından tepedeki buz kütlesi yuvarlandığında, buzullar da vadi yatağını aşındırarak aynı patikayı izledi. Yaklaşık 10 bin yıl önce, son Buzul Çağı sona erdiğinde, deniz suyu vadileri doldurdu.
Buzullarla aşınmış vadiler, sarp etekleri ile U biçiminde olma eğiliminde ve genellikle orta kısımlarında , döküldükleri yerden daha derindirler. Sogne  Fiyordunda da bu böyledir. Su, vadi ağzında 170 metreden dökülürken, Vadheim yakınındaki iç kısımda bunun yaklaşık yedi katı olan 150 km derinliğindedir. Norveç`teki buz örtüsünün son kalıntısı, Sogne Fiyordunun kuzey doğusundaki dağların üstündeki Jostedal Buzulu`dur. Jostedal, Sogne Fiyordundan ayrılan Fjaerlan Fiyordu`na  ve Lustra Fuyordundan Guapne Fiyorduna doğru süzülür. Avrupa anakarasının en büyük buzulu 300 metre kalınlığında ve 425 kilometre kare dir.

sognefjord sognefyord

soğutucu etki

Buzul suyu, Sogne Fiyordu`ndaki suyun yazın bile soğuk olmasını sağlar. Norveç, Alaska ve doğusundaki Sibirya ile aynı enlemdedir ve fiyord Kutup dairesinden yalnızca 800km uzaktadır. Fakat Golf Stream`den başlayan Kuzey Atlantik Akıntısı, iklimi Leikanger civarında elma yetişmesine yeterli bir dereceye kavuşturarak, Karayiplerden, kıyı şeridine sıcaklık taşır.
Sogndal ve Laerdalsoyri gibi küçük kasabalar, suyun kenarından boşalan ırmak deltalarının neden olduğu nadir düzlüklerden birinde kurulmuştur. Aurland, büyük bir hidroelektrik santral ve alüminyum eritme fabrika arazisi sayesinde endüstriyel bir merkez haline bile gelmiştir. Yine de burası yaşamak için kolay bir bölge değildir. Güneşli gün lerde sarp vadi, günün büyük kısmında bölgeyi gölge altında bırakır ve bulutlu günlerde denizden gelen sis kuşatıcı bir serinlik getirir. Denizin pusu ve çisentisi meraları, kederli kuzu, keçi ve koyunların hayeletimsi siluetlerinin uğradığı bataklıklara dönüştürür. Engebeli arazi, bölgede yapılan kara seyahatlerini en elverişli zamanlarda bile daima zorlaştırmıştır. Bu yüzyılda motern yollar yapılmadan önce, başlıca taşıma aracı teknelerdi.
Böyle durumlarda viking ruhu ortaya çıkmıştı ve bu vadilerin insanları da halen bağımsız fikirleriyle ünlüdür.
Bugün çiftçiler ve kasabalılar arazinin, Vettis şelalelerinin 275 metre yükseklikten Sogne Fiyordu`nun en doğusundaki Ardals Fiyordu`na döküldüğü Jotunheimen Ulusal parkı`da son bulan nefes kesici manzara için yazları gelen binlerce ziyaretçiye yiyecek sağlayarak gelir elde eder.

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