TİRAN`A GİDİŞ HİKAYEM VE ARNAVUTLUĞUN BİTMEK BİLMEYEN YOLLARI
Temmuz ayının başlarındayız 10 gün kadar yıllık izindeyim balkanlar güzel olur düşüncesiyle balkanlar turu yapmaya karar verdim, Karadağ, Hırvatistan, Bosna ve Sırbistan`ı gezeceğim. İlk durağım Karadağ`ın Budva şehri olacak, Balkanları gezmenin en kolay ve ucuz yolu kendi arabanızla gitmek, bunun için tek gerekli olan aracınıza yeşil sigorta denilen uluslararası sigortadan yaptırmak. (bunun için yeşil sigorta yazımı inceleyin).
İpsala sınır kapısından çıktık yola, ilk durağımız Kavala oldu, 2 saatlik molanın ardından Selanik istikametine devam ediyoruz ve Selanikten Yünanistan `ın kuzeyine doğru ilerliyoruz hedefimiz Kosova oradanda Budva olacak. Birden hatırlıyorum yeşil sigorta Kosova`da geçerli değil çünkü Kosova`nın kendi sigortası var. İnternetten fiyatına bakıyorum 50€ bir haftalık fiyatı olduğu yazıyor, ya 50€ verip Kosovadan geçeceğim yada alternatif rota olan Arnavutluğa gireceğim ve Tiran üzerinden Budva`ya gideceğim. 50€ büyük para o yüzden Arnavutluk üzerinden gitmeye karar veriyorum ve Arnavutluk macerası başlamış oluyor.
Yünanistan`ın kuzey tarafı her ne kadar dağlık olsa da yollar güzel ama Arnavutluk sınır kapısına yaklaştıkça, işler değişiyor ve yol iyice ıssızlaşıyor ama bu daha başlangıç. Arnavultuk sınır kapısını 15 dakikada geçiyoruz
TİRAN`A NASIL GİDİLİR
Tiran`a giden iki yol var, 1. yol ve en iyi yol olduğunu sonradan öğrendiğim, ohri gölünün kenarından geçen Pogradec üzerinden gidilen yol. 2. yol ise daha kısa ama hayatımda gittiğim en kötü yol olan Gramsh üzerinden gidilen yol. Daha kısa olduğu için sanırım Navigasyon bizi bu yola yönlendiriyor. İlk 5km lik kısmı güzel olmasa da asfatl ve birden yol toprak yola dönüşüyor ve direk dağların içindeyiz, sağımız solumuz her yerimiz uçurum ve dağ. Toprak dediysem de öyle dümdüz toprak yol değil her yer çukurlu delik deşik bir yol. Bu yola girmemek için 50 değil 100€ bile veririm. Bu yolu geçişim gece yarısı civarı, bizden başka araba olmadğı gibi civarda ışık dahi yok. Issızlığın ortasında bir yer bir ara kaybolduğumu düşünüyorum , tekrar haritalara bakıyorum başka alternatif yol yok, mecburen bu yolu gideceğiz. Gece karanlık olmasına rağmen uçurumun aşağısının bir kanyon olduğu belli, şiddetle akan akarsuyun sesi geliyor, yol kenarında bariyer falan hiç birşey yok ve en kötüsü yol tek arabalık dapdar bir yol, yanlışlıkla aşağı yuvarlansanız bir hafta kimse sizi bulamaz. Bir saat kadar ilerledikten sonra Baraj inşaatı çıkıyor karşımıza, ihaleyi Türk firması üstlenmiş, bir Türk buluruz umuduyla şantiyenin kapısına gidip adres soruyoruz ama berçi Arnavut çıkıyor, zar zor anlaşıyoruz doğru yolda olduğumuzu söylüyor. Mecburen bu yoldan devam edeceğiz, dağların bir tepesine çıkıyoruz bir aşağı iniyoruz bu şekilde 125km lik yol 5 saate yakın sürüyor. Ben araç kullandığım için video çekemedim ama yolun nasıl bir yer olduğunu görmeniz için aşağıdaki videoları izlemenizi tavsiye ederim.
Yolun büyük çoğunluğunu böyle toprak yollardan geçtikten sonra Gramsh a yaklaştıkça yol asfatla dönüyor, aslında asfalt yeni yeni yapılıyor burada , asfaltı yapan yine bir Türk firması.
Gördüğünüz gibi yol kötü ama manzara müthiş, illa bu yoldan gideceğim dağları, nehirleri göreceğim diyorsanız da gündüz geçin, gece hiç birşey göremezsiniz.
ARNAVUTLUK ENVER HOCA DÖNEMİ
Zorlu yollardan, tünellerden geçtikten sonra Tiran`a varıyoruz. Akaryakıt fiyatları Arnavutlukta oldukça ucuz ancak çoğu yerde kredi kartı geçmiyor. Tiran`a yaklaştıkça trafik artıyor, berbat bir trafik var kimse kimseye yol falan vermiyor, kurallara uyan kimsede pek görmedim o yüzden trafikte dikkatli olun.
Arnavutluk`ta uzun yıllar Komünist siyasetçi Enver Hoca`nın yönetiminde kalmış, daha başkente ilk girişte gri tekdüze binalar sizi karşılıyor, şehir eskilik görünümünden hala kurtulamamış birden kendinizi 90 larda hissediyorsunuz.
İkinci dünya savaşından sonra 1985 yılında öldüğü güne kadar Enver Hoca Arnavutluğun başında kalmış. Ülkeyi 41 yıl yöneten Enver Hoca, 1967 yılında resmi olarak dünyada ilk ateist devlet ilan etti. Arnavutluktaki cami ve kliseleri yıktıran Enver Hoca, okullardaki derslerde de papaz ve imam maketlerini göstererek halkı sömüren kişiler ve yalancı kişiler olarak lanse etmiştir.
ARNAVUTLUK TARİHİ VE OSMANLI İLİŞKİLERİ
14yy dan 1913 yılına kadar Osmanlı hakimiyetinde kalan Arnavutluk Osmanlıdan ayrılan en son ulustur. Diğer uluslardan farklı olarak Arnavutlar osmanlı döneminde toplu olarak müslüman olmaya başladılar, müslüman olan Arnavutlar Osmanlı`nın diğer bölgelerine göç ederek devlet yönetiminde önemli yerlere geldiler. Kavalalı Mehmet Ali paşa Arnavut kökenlidir ve modern Mısır`ın temellerini atan kişi olarak bilinir. Günümüzde Arnavut tanıdığı olmayan yoktur, işte bu göçün hikayesi 17yy a kadar uzanmaktadır. Bugün Arnavutluğun büyük bir çoğunlunu hala müslümanlar oluşturuyor. Bu ilişkilerden dolayı Arnavutlukta en çok konuşulan diller arasında İtalyanca ve Türkçe ilk sıradadır.
TİRAN GEZİLECEK YERLER
Sizi karşılayan gri ve eski binalara bakıp karamsarlığa kapılmayın, uzun yıllar Osmanlı topraklarında kalmış bir ülkenin başkentinde elbette gezilecek yerler vardır.
Kaplan Paşa Türbesi
Osmanlı eseri olan türbe, 18yy da yaşayan Kaplan Paşa`nın türbesidir, Osmanlı eserlerini görmek isteyenler burasını tercih edebilir.
Skanderbeg Meydanı

Türkçe ismi iskender bey meydanıdır. Arnavutluğun ulusal kahramanı İskender Beyden adını alan 40,000² lik bir alandan oluşur.
Justinyen Kalesi
6yy da I. Justinyen tarafından yapılan kale Petrale kalesi olarakta bilinir, Tiran`ın Petrala köyünde yer alır.
Parku İ Madh

Büyük park olarakta bilinir, Tiran`ın merkezinde özellikle hafta sonları halkın büyük ilgi gösterdiği ve vakit geçirdiği parktır.
Dajti dağı
Tiran`ın doğusunda yer alan dağa merkezden kalkan otobüslerle ve teleferikle ulaşabilirsiniz. Tiranda az görülün kar yağışının aksine bu dağ kışın genelde karla kaplıdır, kar görmek isteyen Tiran halkı Dajti dağını sıklıkla tercih eder.
Tabak köprüsü
18.yy dan kalma eski taş bir köprüdür pek bir işlevi yok aslında görmeseniz de olur.
Durres Sahili
Arnavutluğun en güzel sahillerinden biri Durrestedir. Tiran a 35km mesafede olan Durres deniz turizmi için Arnavultuğun en güzel ve en hareketli yerlerinden biridir.
ARNAVUT YEMEKLERİ ARNAVUTLUK`TA NE YENİR
Arnavut yemeklerinin lezzetini hepimiz biliriz, birde bunları yerinde yemek var. Elbasan tava nın ismini duymayan yoktur herhalde, Elsaban Arnavutlukta bir şehir Gramsh üzerinden Tiran a giderseniz Elbasan`dan geçmek zorundasınız. Yolunuz düşerse Elbasan tava yiyebilirsiniz. Arnavut böreğininde ününü duymayan yoktur, Tiranda her yerde börekçi görüp börek yiyebilirsiniz mutlaka ıspanaklı börek deneyin. Tiranda ne yiyebiliriz diye düşünürken menüde tas kebabı yazısı gördüm, bildiğiniz türkçeye benzer şekilde yazılmış, nedir diye sorduğumda garsona doğal olarak tas kebabı yanıtını aldım. İyiki tas kebabı yemişim büyük bir kase (tas) içinde suyu oldukça lezzelti ve içinde bol et olan koca bir kase geldi. Fiyatı 400lek olan tas kebabı beni iyice doyurdu, yemeğimi yedikten sonra Karadağ sınırına doğru ilerlemeye devam ediyoruz.
ARNAVUTLUK GENEL BİLGİ
Para birimi lek, 1€ 133 lek ediyor, 1tl ise 30 lek civarında. Konuşulan diller Arnavutça, İtalyanca, Türkçe ve Yünanca dır. Nüfusun %56 sı müslüman, %14 ü inaçsız, %17 lik kısmı isi hristiyandır.
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